Laura Rowley Money & Happiness

Jim Cory was doing dishes at the kitchen sink in his Philadelphia row house when water began dripping on his head. "I looked up and there was a bag of water -- as big as a cow's udder -- hanging from the ceiling," he recalls. The leak grew worse with every rain, and eventually poured in through the light fixtures.

One contractor suggested using dyes to trace the source of the leak; another wanted to remove the back of the house. "Finally, one day I got a 13-foot ladder at the store and climbed up to the roof," says Cory, editor of Replacement Contractor Magazine, a publication for exterior contractors. "The downspouts were completely plugged -- nothing could go through." Cory cleaned out the gutters and hasn't experienced a drop since.

When I bought my home five years ago, I knew there would be maintenance involved. I quickly realized that small preventive steps -- in one case, a $3 container of caulk -- could forestall hundreds of dollars in repairs.

No matter the age of your house, there are specific tasks you should undertake to avoid enormously expensive repairs down the road. Here are the top five for spring (for a year-round list, see my blog):

1. Clean your gutters and inspect for damage caused by ice damming.

Liberating your gutters from winter debris is the first task for spring, experts say. "If you allow a buildup of leaves, sticks, twigs, and pine needles, and they plug the downspout, it will back up and at some point find a way into the house -- it's only a matter of time," says Cory. Rusting gutters should be replaced.

Another problem is ice dams that form on the gutters in winter. "Snow on top of the roof melts, reaches the eaves and encounters a cooler temperature, and then freezes in the gutter and downspout," Cory explains. "The repeated thawing and refreezing can wreak havoc on gutters, downspouts, and roof. If you have enough of that activity, it can easily pierce the decking, which is the plywood on the rafters that the shingles go over."

But ice damming is not just a roof-and-gutter affair. Water that pools behind the ice can seep under the roof shingles and leak into the attic. The attic insulation gets wet, rendering it less effective (even after it dries) -- and sending heating and cooling bills soaring. Moreover, moisture that gets trapped within the walls can cause mold and rotting.

Clean the gutters using a ladder, or hire a licensed roofer to do it. (Ask for proof of license and insurance.) Make sure the attic is well-insulated, and talk to a roofer about ways to properly ventilate the roof to keep it cool in the winter and prevent the snow from melting and then refreezing in the gutters.

2. Inspect the roof.

While the roofer is emptying the gutters, have him inspect for damage -- especially if you notice roof shakes or shingles lying on the ground.

"During the winter, the roofing tile expands and contracts, and wind-driven storms will blow off the tile," says David MacLellan, a California home builder and author of "The National Home Maintenance Manual." "You can also inspect the roof yourself using binoculars and a step ladder, or, if you're on good terms with the neighbors, ask them if you can come over and do a reverse peek."

A missing roof tile will expose the roof membrane to the sun. "Tarpaper or roofing felt is very susceptible to degradation by ultraviolet light," says MacLellan. "That can cause the roof to fail prematurely." The cost of replacing a roof can run anywhere from $8,500 to $28,000, depending on the size and location of the house.

3. Inspect siding, paint, and caulking around openings, and cracks in brick and mortar.

Look for nails that may have been pushed out of siding by winter expansion and contraction -- especially common on south- and west-facing walls, MacLellan says. Remove the old nails and hammer larger, new nails into the same holes.

Also inspect the paint and check the trim around windows and doors. Make sure the bead of caulking hasn't broken or pulled apart. "If it has, cut out all of the old caulking with a knife or a screwdriver," says MacLellan. "Don't caulk on top of old caulk, and be sure to buy a 25- to 30-year caulk."

Caulking will help prevent leaks that cause mold to grow inside the wall cavity. "It's a health issue as well as maintenance issue," says MacLellan.

Inspect the exterior of the home for cracks in brick and mortar as well. You can fix these yourself; see this Home Tips page for instructions.

4. Make sure all windows and doors open and close smoothly.

This especially applies to patio doors or casement windows that ride on a track. "Make sure tracks are clean and windows operate freely," says MacLellan.

If they stick, apply a silicon spray to the roller mechanisms; don't use oil or WD-40 because they can make the tracks gummy. Failing to maintain the rollers can result in breakage, and the risk of having to replace the window or sliding door at a cost of $800 to $900, MacLellan estimates.

5. Change your furnace filters.

The furnace filter keeps dust and dirt from invading the important motor components, helping the furnace work more efficiently. Failing to replace the filter consumes more energy and could potentially damage the motor.

"You can buy a basic furnace filter, or one that takes everything out of the air -- they cost from $3 to $30 a panel," says MacLellan, who recommends replacing the filter at least twice a year. Replacing the filter also keeps a house cleaner and more comfortable for people with allergies.

Some filters are designed to be cleaned rather than replaced, so review your product manual.