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Home Refinancing Basics

In recent years, millions of homeowners have taken advantage of low rates and refinanced their mortgages. This article describes the advantages and possible pitfalls associated with a "refi."

Before You Start

  • Remember that refinancing to reduce debt can be a smart move, but refinancing in order to borrow more for consumer purchases (car, vacation, etc.) could set you back significantly.
  • Read the fine print on your current mortgage to learn whether you'll be assessed penalties or fees for "getting out" of that loan early.
  • Make sure you know whether you have a fixed or variable interest rate and what the terms are.
1

Home Refinancing Basics

In recent years, Americans seeking to take advantage of low interest rates have lined up to refinance their mortgages. In fact, refinancings hit an all-time high in 2003, and remained high in both 2004 and 2005, according to the Mortgage Bankers Association of America.

But while it's true that refinancing has the potential to help you reduce the costs associated with borrowing money to own a home, it is not necessarily a strategy that makes sense for every individual in every situation. So before you make a commitment to refinance your mortgage, its important to do your homework and determine whether such a move is the right one for you.
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2

To Refinance or Not

The old and arbitrary rule of thumb said that a refi only makes sense if you can lower your interest rate by at least two percentage points for example, from 9% to 7%. But what really matters is how long it will take you to break even and whether you plan to stay in your home that long. In other words, make sure you understand -- and are comfortable with -- the amount of time it will take for your overall savings to compensate for the cost of the refinancing.

Consider this: If you had a $200,000 30-year mortgage with an 8% interest rate, your monthly payment would be $1,468. If you refinanced at 6%, your new monthly payment would be $1,199, a savings of $269 per month. Assuming that your new closing costs amounted to $2,000, it would take eight months to break even. ($269 x 8 = $2,152). If you planned to stay in your home for at least eight more months, then a refi would be appropriate under these conditions. If you planned to sell the house before then, you might not want to bother refinancing. (See below for additional examples.)
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3

Remember -- All Mortgages Are Not Created Equal

Don't make the mistake of choosing a mortgage based only on its stated annual percentage rate (APR), because there are a variety of other important variables to consider, such as:

The term of the mortgage -- This describes the amount of time it will take you to pay off the loan's principal and interest. Although short-term mortgages typically offer lower interest rates than long-term mortgages, they usually involve higher monthly payments. On the other hand, they can result in significantly reduced interest costs over time.

The variability of the interest rate -- There are two basic types of mortgages: those with "fixed" (i.e., unchanging) interest rates and those with variable rates, which can change after a predetermined amount of time has passed, such as one year or five years. While an adjustable-rate mortgage (ARM) usually offers a lower introductory rate than a fixed-rate mortgage with a comparable term, the ARM's rate could jump in the future if interest rates rise. If you plan to stay in your home for a long time, it may make sense to opt for the predictability and security of a fixed rate, whereas an ARM might make sense if you plan to sell before its rate is allowed to go up. Also keep in mind that interest rates hovered near historical lows in recent years and are more likely to increase than decrease over time.

Points -- Points (also known as "origination fees" or "discount fees") are fees that you pay to a lender or broker when you close the deal. While a "no-cost" or "zero points" mortgage does not carry this up-front cost, it could prove to be more expensive if the lender charges a higher interest rate instead. So you'll need to determine whether the savings from a lower rate justify the added costs of paying points. (One point is equal to one percent of the loan's value.)

How Much Would You Save?
A homeowner with a 30-year, $200,000 mortgage charging 8% interest would pay $1,468 each month. The table below illustrates the potential monthly savings and the various break-even periods that would result from refinancing at different rates.

Rate After Refinancing New Monthly Payment Monthly Savings Months to Break Even*
7.5% $1,398 $70 29
7.0% $1,331 $137 15
6.5% $1,264 $204 10
6.0% $1,199 $269 8
5.5% $1,136 $332 7
5.0% $1,074 $394 6

*Assumes $2,000 closing costs. Rounded up to the next highest month.

A Closer Look at Mortgage Fees
Using data collected during 2003, researchers at Bankrate.com determined the average fees charged to consumers who borrow money to buy a home. Based on a loan of $180,000, the fees broke down as follows:

Average Lender/Broker Fees
Administration fee: $336
Application fee: $205
Commitment fee: $498
Document preparation: $194
Funding fee: $228
Mortgage broker fee: $839
Processing: $320
Tax service: $73
Underwriting: $269
Wire transfer: $31
Third-Party Fees
Appraisal: $327
Attorney or settlement fees: $445
Credit report: $29
Flood certification: $17
Pest & other inspection: $68
Postage/courier: $45
Survey: $174
Title insurance: $605
Title work: $200
Government Fees
Recording fee: $76
Various taxes: $1,339

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4

Stick With What You Know?

Finally, keep in mind that your current lender may make it easier and cheaper to refinance than another lender would. That's because your current lender is likely to have all of your important financial information on hand already, which reduces the time and resources necessary to process your application. But don't let that be your only consideration. To make a well-informed, confident decision you'll need to shop around, crunch the numbers, and ask plenty of questions.
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Summary

  • The decision to refinance should only be made if the long-term savings outweigh the initial expenses. To calculate your break-even point, divide the cost of the refi by your monthly savings. The resulting figure represents the number of months you will need to stay in the home to make the strategy work.
  • Don't select a new mortgage based only on its annual percentage rate.
  • Also evaluate the term of the loan, whether the interest rate is fixed or variable, and the relative merits of paying up-front fees in exchange for a lower rate.
  • Your current lender already knows you and has your financial information on file, so you may be able to get a better deal that way, instead of going to a new lender.
  • To get the best possible refinancing deal, you'll need to shop around, crunch some numbers, and ask a lot of questions.

Checklist

  • Shop around and conduct a detailed cost assessment (with a financial professional, if necessary) to identify which mortgage offers the greatest financial benefits.
  • Read the entire contract before signing. Don't let anyone pressure you or rush you to make a hasty decision.
  • If refinancing results in lower monthly payments, use those savings to pursue other important goals, such as preparing for retirement and college costs.

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141 Comments

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  • AaronM - Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 3:28PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 2/5

    This was pretty lame. It is all really obvious information. I purchased in July, and my closing costs were about 5 grand, but this was a PURCHASE not a refinance. A refinance is going to be cheaper. Also, someone said anyone in a city will have more than $1600 property taxes. I seriously hope not. I live in Tempe, AZ, home of Arizona State University, and I pay $1200 for a 3/2 1800 sqft home.

  • Steve - Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 12:50PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    I agree with some of the other comments that this article was written by a financial idiot. $2000 in closing costs is not even close! It is interesting how the overall rating has been manipulated by cherry picking some comments from years ago!

  • J - Wednesday, November 11, 2009, 12:33PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    Outdated!

  • K - Monday, October 19, 2009, 2:57PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    Average Lender/Broker Fees are all wrong, very outdated

  • William - Wednesday, September 30, 2009, 9:38AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    Decent article. My only problem is with this statement: "a refinance should only be made if the long-term savings outweigh the initial expenses." There are other reasons to refinance. I'm considering replacing a 20 year loan with 14 years left to go with a 30 year loan. My goal is to cut my payments by $500 per month to help pay for my son's new school. If I need the money it's there. If I don't need it, I intend to make a $500 principal payment. I intend to pay my loan off in 14 years, but if I lose my job or experience other financial hardship, I have a built in cushion. Depending on how long I stay in my house, this approach may end up costing me more, but for me that's the price of the flexibility I'm looking for.

  • Rates - Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 4:47PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 2/5

    I think that this is a fair guide to a Refi. The only thing that I would like to point out is that they used stats from 03 for an example of closing costs. I am a broker and can tell you that THINGS HAVE CHANGED! What they are listing are so called junk fees and are overall no longer used. A standard GFE and final HUD are going to carry underwriting, processing, title fees, appraisal and a credit report charge. Anything other then that is above and beyond the required charges! When looking for a loan I would tell a client that they should look for what makes sense like the author said as far as points on a loan. If a point is going to buy you down half a percent then it’s worth it. Also most banks and loan officers tend to refer people to FHA loans when indeed they can qualify for a standard conforming loan, sometimes a client can qualify with paying some adjustment points while most of the time if they have a 80% LTV or less tends to be cheaper in the end by the time you figure the MIP funding fee. And on an ending note with the new programs coming out you will be able to Refi up to 125% without PMI if you are not paying it currently! And if you are paying the PMI you would be able to get a lower rate with the same program and still pay PMI. So overall ok article just very out dated. If you can save 1% on your rate and you have a 200,000.00 mortgage you will save around $45,000.00 over 30yrs. I don’t know about you but that is my sons collage fund! If you have any questions feel free to call me (248) 663-3240 my name is Paul

  • cocorico48 - Tuesday, August 11, 2009, 9:52AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    Whoever wrote this article has a degree in liberal arts and is truly a financial idiot.

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Friday, August 7, 2009, 2:15PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 2/5

    Whomever wrote this article is pretty naive. It's value is that it tells you to look at the costs, but the examples it uses ($2000! hah), are ridiculous.

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Wednesday, April 1, 2009, 1:17PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    How can I use this information? Your example shows a refi with $2000 closing costs then later on in the article you decribe typical closing costs that total over $6000. A typical apples and oranges bit of information. Useless.

  • Tom C - Tuesday, March 31, 2009, 10:31AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 3/5

    What wasn't mentioned was the tax deductibility of the mortgage interest. If you are paying more interest, the government helps you because you get to deduct it if you itemize with a schedule A. So, the "benefit" of the refi has to take into account the smaller deduction on your taxes, and therefore the longer it will take to truly recoup your costs.

  • David - Friday, February 20, 2009, 7:23PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 3/5

    I have just purchased a home with a 30 yr fixed rate mortgage. All the above fees were included. Also used a mortgage broker, who steered me to major bank. Saved 0.5% off mortgage rate and no points instead of 1.5 the bank was asking. Not always beneficial to go to source, mortgage brokers have more influence with banks than you as an individual could possibly have. Also deals with more lending institutions obtaining best deal.

  • JimF - Thursday, February 19, 2009, 8:08PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    No mention of a huge factor: time remaining in current mortgage vs. term of new mortgage. Would you replace a 30 year fixed 8% that has 2 years left to pay off with a new 30 year fixed 5%?

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Sunday, February 15, 2009, 3:51PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 2/5

    Average article, figures are contrived to make the story work; there is no "rule of thumb" in my opinion. I have been a Mortgage Banker for 15 years and I interview every client and determine goals & objectives, prior to contrary belief the lowest interest rate is not always the best deal and “no closing costs” may not be either. You want your mortgage provider to compare and contrast the two. The average mortgage provider is grossing 1-1.5% on your loan amount (IE:$300k=$3,000-$4,500 for that loan) make them work for their money, I work for my clients. Guess what, if you don’t make them work, they are still collecting the same money. As an aside, your current company does not care about keeping your loan for any other reason except new revenues. If they cared that much they would simply modify your loan for a fee IE: $500.00. Generally speaking, your current company services the loan nothing more, nothing less. Yes there are Banks that "Portfolio Loans" but I promise you if the price was right, you would be sold. I would suggest that the consumer stay away from big On-line companies that claim to promote competition and be very leery of the lowest interest rate in the newspaper, telemarketers and specific commercials. Bottom line is that every mortgage is a different story period. Credit, Income, Home value, Assets; no story is exactly alike. I would recommend that the consumer consult their own "sphere of influence" and get input from others whose opinions you trust. If you take advantage of a referral you will more times than not either get a good deal or get honest answers. And quite frankly, if you do not get better than average service from the referred you may need to rethink the quality of the referrer. Do your homework and you can make a good deal...regardless of the "rule of thumb" stuff.

  • Jason - Saturday, February 14, 2009, 9:49AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    We started out looking at refinancing at another bank than who we are with. We have credit scores in the high 700's and always make our payments. We bought a house 3 years ago with a 30 year fixed rate. We just want to lower our monthly payment, I mean who wouldn't right? Then we found out that even with a higher interest rate it would be a lower payment if we stayed with our current lender and took their "no cost" loan. We had to cancel our refinance through the first bank, even though they already had done an appraisal, we had been approved, and they had already submitted the subordination of the loan. We went ahead and cancelled, because of the "no cost" loan from our current lender. No cost meaning no closing costs, no points, no application fee and so on. To make the story short our current lender appraised our house $20,000 less than the first bank we started refinancing through. Then nobobdy contacted us and let us know that our refinance was now nulll and void with our current lender. They said that our loan to value ratio was not under 90%. Well it was 90.54%. I guess I don't understand how 11 days later (time between the two appraisals) our house was worth $20,000 less! They even used two of the same houses on both appraisals and they were very different. Our current lender didn't even have OUR square footage, or lot size right on the appraisal. We do have an appraisal dispute in with our current lender, but can we trust that they'll do what they say? I'm not hanging my neck out there again. So, needless to say we are back at our first choice of refinance and they are working with us and can still use our first appraisal and credit report. I guess our current lender really does not want us as a customer anymore! Be careful as to what "no cost" loans they dangle out there, they will probably pass you up if you make payments on time and don't NEED to refinance. No wonder we are in the mess we are in.

  • Jason - Thursday, February 12, 2009, 9:08PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 3/5

    I feel that this is a good article overall..but this is definitely not the situation here. I work for a community bank and the fees are much lower. Our fees on a typical refinance are less than $1000.00.

  • abhilash - Wednesday, February 11, 2009, 10:17PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 2/5

    Excellent

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Sunday, December 28, 2008, 3:56PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 1/5

    I work for a very large and "reputable" lender, in NY, as a senior mortgage banker, and have years of experience in mortgage brokering as well. I found this article to be poor, and here is why. First of all, rates are not even close to the example. I mean not even in the ballpark. The odds of refinancing to lower the rate by two percentage points are between slim and none, and slim just flew out of the window. In New York, the only properties with closing costs near 2,000 are coops, otherwise, closing costs are much much much higher. It may be cheaper to refi with a your current lender, but it has absolutley nothing to do with the fact that they may have your info already. It is my experience that they normally do not have your info still and whatever they may have is almost certainly outdated, and obsolete. They may be cheaper because they may (usually will not) waive an application fee, or offer a special of the month, or a reduced title bill, or simply because so many other lenders are going to great lengths to ripping people off, it just seems tha way. Refinancing today has been and still is a rarity (people are starting to apply again with the fed rate cuts and they are largely being denied), and has hardly made much sense for most, and has become nearly impossible for most, unless they want or need cash out (which banks do not want to lend on much currently, or simply want to lower their monthly bills because they are being choked out and getting poor slow, if lucky, and poor fast if not so fortunate. Title Insurance and mortgage tax in New York, and other states of the same, are the biggest thing standing in the way for those who actually qualify per bank guidelines/criteria, in opting to refinance. Breakevens are much longer here in NY than in the example, and I liked how the example of closing costs was that of a purchase, when the heading (subject) of the article was Home REFINANCING Basics???? In my experience, the fees are off by a margin too. I do realize that this was national averaging, but the article should reference, that New York is no where close to correllating to this article, AND YES, it did fail to mention overall Total dollars added and "resetting" your mortgage term. Even with all of the market damage, I still do not know where you can buy a home for 180,000 in NY, but something tells me it won't be long before you may. The old saying is banks lend money to those who do not need it.... Think about it. Long and hard. But hey its' not all that bad, America is still the best on the planet, and the only thing certain besides death and taxes is change.

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Saturday, November 15, 2008, 9:44AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    Easy to understand...provides the basics of refi.

  • Joyce - Sunday, November 9, 2008, 10:36AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 3/5

    The info presented was very good and accurate to my knowledge. One added note as nice as the interest rates may look, it may not be accurate or consistant for everyone. Your credit rating appears to be the determining factor for the interest rate.(This number which I believe to have way too much power.) You could have excellent credit for years then have an accident or an unforeseen event which temporarily hurts you financially. This may have hindered your "good credit" record and now if you attempt to do the financially wise thing or you apply for loans, refi or the like, you will suffer or pay the higher interest rates if your approved at all. So although you are attempting to do or get the best rates and do all your research, you will still be subject to your credit history for the final interest rate which again will dictate your ability to refi or if it is even worth doing. Unfortunately, being well informed and doing your homework does not help acquire the better looking interest rate. I realize this may be a little off on how to get the best interest rate, your credit history has way too much power and can not be overlooked in your consideration of any financially wise decision.

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Friday, July 11, 2008, 3:30PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 3/5

    Really good information about refinancing, but you left out some very key points. Before refinancing homeowners need to realize that you are starting over and will have 30 years to pay. Almost 50% of the total interest is paid in the first 10 years. Most homeowners only look at the monthly payment when considering refinancing and don't realize that the true cost may be hundreds of thousands of dollars in additional interest over their lifetime by refinancing at a lower rate. I recommend paying off the mortgage early by opening a Mortgage Savings Account instead of refinancing. Mortgage Savings Accounts typically save hundreds of thousands of dollars in mortgage interest by combining the checking and savings accounts with the mortgage. Unlike mortgage acceleration programs which require you to pay extra money out of your budget, Mortgage Savings Accounts simply use money that is sitting idle in your checking and savings account to offset the principal balance of your mortgage. Because 80% to 90% of your mortgage payment is paying interest and only 10% to 20% pays down the principal, $5,000 in a cheecking account can save $50,000 in interest and $10,000 can save $100,000 in interest. Mortgage Saving Accounts are relatively unknown in the U.S., but have been used in Australia and the UK for decades. Google "Mortgage Savings Accounts" to get more information.

  • george - Friday, June 20, 2008, 11:16AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    provided more insight to "re-fi"..thanks for the information.

  • jacquie - Thursday, March 27, 2008, 10:35AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    The data on fees provided is a little outdated. This is 5 years later.w

  • jaime - Friday, March 21, 2008, 11:25AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    It's simply amazing! How good to know that there are so much things to learn from amazing people working behind Yahoo! Thanks a lot.

  • __A_YAHOO_USER__ - Saturday, March 15, 2008, 5:14PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 5/5

    This was a very good artical ,to help me decide what to do thank you so much

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Thursday, March 6, 2008, 11:33AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 5/5

    The best guides on refi ever i read from Yahoo,Thank you

  • m5130_99 - Wednesday, February 27, 2008, 12:12PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    Good Info

  • Evelyn - Monday, February 4, 2008, 7:21PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 5/5

    This information helps me in making a decision to refinance my mortgage for a lower interest rate.

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Tuesday, January 22, 2008, 4:33PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 3/5

    Best choice call your Credit Union. They have great rates and cheap costs... Mine is offering a 15yr loan (no points) for 4.5%

  • Yahoo! Finance User - Friday, December 21, 2007, 8:59AM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    Very good article. Easy to skim over quickly and get important information on the basics.

  • joseph - Tuesday, October 9, 2007, 2:09PM ET  Report Abuse

    • Overall: 4/5

    I agree with porductionmusiclife and what they said about the money merge account. We also got set up on the program and it is even better than I anticipated it to be! We will have our mortgage paid in about a third of the normal time! If you have a mortgage- instead of looking to refinance- check out the MMA program. Actually, even if you have a great mortgage and don't need to refinance- the program will benefit you. I don't think there really is anyone with a mortgage that wouldn't benefit from the MMA program! Definitely well worth it!

Showing comments 6-35 of 141<< PreviousNext >>

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