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Tesla Motors, Inc. Message Board

  • keefwivaneff keefwivaneff Feb 4, 2014 6:34 AM Flag

    GIVE HIM A NEW 12 VOLT BATTERY....you IDIOTS!!

    Really, I am trying to help here.
    The 12 Volt battery in the TERDSLA is CRITICAL.
    I learned a LONG time ago that when your battery starts playing up REPLACE IT.
    You can recharge it until you are blue in the face but fact is (see battery university) once a Lead Acid battery has been discharged to below 10.5 Volts it is IRREVERSIBLY DAMAGED.
    No amount of SOFTWARE UPGRADES will change this fact.
    What a bunch of amateur fork wits!


    Re: Charging error, Schuko, UMC, flat 12V battery, the latest software
    « Reply # 4 on: Today at. 11:54 »
    Quote from: K on Today at. 11:00
    Are there others that are still experiencing these charging problems with Schuko plug (16A/13A) and Tesla UMC and the pouring of 12V battery as a result, even after the latest software update?

    Yes. My car stood still because of flat 12V some days after the last software update. I called Tesla and Tesla ranger came within an hour and boosted battery. (((REPLACE IT YOU IDIOTS))) Towards the end of last week came 12V error messages back, along with error message to contact Tesla service. I drove down to Skoyen, and the measured UMC and checked the logs on the car and gave me a Mennekes charging cable because the logs in the car said voltage fluctuation in my home made ​​me qualified to a Mennekes charging cable. Temporarily, until a new Norwegian charging cable comes. So far Mennekes charging cable worked fine. No charge error messages now, but I've only had it a few days. Hint: To avoid problems with 12V current UMC, do not let UMC stay connected longer than necessary. Disconnect UMC after charging is completed, close the charging door, check for possibly charging error messages simply possibly those for the car to start maintenance charging 12V ​​battery.

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    • RARELY do I agree with shorts... but on the 12V conventional battery...

      a. other day I went out and was 0 degrees Farenheit... key in intition... one click... then nothing ...persisted with one clicks... then started... fully warmed up... shut off... wouldn't start again... left SIT 1/2 an hour ...then cranked a bit better and did start....(don't keep trying to start or you can BURN STARTER OUT... no more than a few seconds ...each time shutoff....

      b. anyway... determination that 4/5 year old battery... was only charging with enough to start car (most days I tried starting ...temp was above 20F... so would usually "start right up"... BUT I KNEW... "one of these days" ...I would be getting "real cold weather again" AND I WOULD HAVE SAME PROBLEM... plus heavy drains from "full heater and lights at night" and alternator wouldn't be charging much, etc.

      c. also "corroded connectors on battery" ....YOU LOSE APPROX 10% A DAY of battery disharge when you don't start and run car a bit AT LEAST EVERY TWO DAYS (I DO)...BECAUSE "DIRT ON TOP OF BATTERY bleeds off battery charge..."a very slight discharge occurs between the poles of battery (and hours of not using car ...this is not replenished by alternator UNTIL CAR IS RUNNING A WHILE AGAIN...meaning: LET THAT CAR SIT A FEW DAYS... AND YOUR BATTERY may not have enough to "crank starter" (cranking started takes a lot of "amps" etc.

      (there is also an issue of "carbon alternator spring loaded commutator brushes wearing down from friction" ...so it pays to replace these brushes ...on most cars you can access without removing alternator or belts...did this a couple times of cars in past.... (you can buy check with volt/ammeter if you want, etc.) BUT THIS IS RARER...and you usually find this out when you "have replaced battery" but still have starting issues...

      there are also other issues like "voltage regulator" (should have about 14.2.-14.4 volts...plus you get "solenoid" metal clicking sound...

      • 3 Replies to flashrob
      • you made need "two people" to listen for solenoid "clicking" that WHEN CAR DON'T START (headlights might still work ...because battery has enough charge to run that BUT NOT MEET "HIGH THRESHOLD VOLTS/AMPS" TO "CRANK STARTER MOTOR...."....

        LIKE THAT:

        SIMPLE BOTTOMLINE:

        GET NEW BATTER "GET HI-AMP STARTER ONE"....LIKE DON'T WASTE getting like 60+ amp start potential...I got "best 80amp" at Walmart... PUT IN MYSELF....real "damn nuisance"...HAD TO REMOVE FUSEBOX AND OTHER STUFF TO GET BATTERY OUT AND BACK IN... devil of a job...NEXT TIME LET SEARS/WALMART...WHOEVER DO THIS...

        THESE NEW CARS SO JAMMED WITH STUFF...you got to take "all kinds of stuff" off first to do something "that used to be simple ten minute job, etc.''

        anyway NEW BATTERY...lights and all elecs RUN BETTER... and brighter...

        so for 100 bucks DO SELF... or maybe 150... place do...MY ADVICE "GET DONE" IF YOUR BATTERY A FEW YEARS OLD...got enough problems without "expensive breakdown on road" guy jumpstart you...PAY BIG FOR HIM COME OUT, etc...AND "YOU STILL GOT PROBLEM...NEXT TIME..."

        other car issues... can deal with or get to service/dealer...etc. YOUR CAR NOT START or get stuck in "parking lot" shopping...that BIG DOWNER...

        I only footdragged on this issue because I DID BEFORE and new "f'n battery replacement" WAS DIFFICULT ON MY CAR...didn't want average svc place ...breaking stuff on my electrics (like fuse box) trying to force battery out/in... or breaking connectors, wiring harnesses, etc. BECAUSE THEY GOT PROBLEM "get battery in/out, etc. SO THIS I DO MYSELF...

        changed "air filter" too... SAME DEAL...had to take "all kinds of stuff" off mech/elec JUST TO CHANGE SIMPLE AIR FILTER...damn nuisance "HI POWERED GAS GUZZLERS BE FOR LAST FEW DECADES...

        spark plugs... I think you may have to "unbolt engine" to shift and get to back ones...I BE GLAD WHEN I GET TESLA "SIMPLE ENGINE"...

        CAN DO MUCH MYSELF with diagostic stuff...but REMOVING 5-10 OTHER THINGS everytime "ckeck engine light" on...

      • There is something called a maintenance charger that can trickle charge a cold car battery from a wall socket or extension cord. And a 5 year old lead acid battery is about the limit.

      • On a $100K TERDSLA where 12 Volt battery is essential to the operation it is insane to ignore the fact that the battery has been compromised by over discharging.
        On a conventional ICE vehicle you might choose to squeeze a few more months out of the battery, and if you can get by until the warmer weather you might even get another 6 months use.
        Worst case you can get a jump start and once you are on your way you're pretty safe.
        Not so the TERDSLA.
        You'll beef hooked for sure!
        $100 for a new battery?
        Peanuts.

 
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