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Grapefruit: Born in the USA

Annaliese Griffin
Grapefruit: Born in the USA

As American as apple pie—it’s a phrase that suggests a gingham tablecloth, a plate full of warm pastry cooling in an open window, a grandmotherly type bustling in a tidy kitchen. It’s the invocation of an idealized past. As we barrel toward the Fourth of July this year, let’s set the apple aside for a…