How I became a food writer: Alison Roman
Our series “How I became a …” digs into the stories of accomplished and influential people, finding out how they got to where they are in their careers.
From her beginnings working in the restaurant scene to becoming a cook with viral recipes like #TheCookies and #TheStew, Alison Roman is quite the culinary jill-of-all-trades. As the bestselling author of cookbooks “Dining In” and “Nothing Fancy” as well as a columnist for New York Times Cooking and Bon Appétit, Roman always has her hands on a keyboard or working on a stovetop.
USA TODAY caught up with the food writer and chef extraordinaire to talk about everything from Joan Didion and oat milk to learning to say no and consistently cultivating staying power in everything she does.
Question: How did you get your start?
Alison Roman: I started by working in kitchens, working in restaurants as a pastry cook. That looks very different than my life does now, but I was working in restaurants and doing service and coming up with dishes that went on menus, things like that.
It basically all relates to each other. I don’t think that I would have been as strong of a writer about food had I not cooked professionally and had that background experience. It also teaches you a ridiculous work ethic that is challenging to find elsewhere.
Q: What does a typical day look like for you?
Roman: A typical day is super atypical. It really depends – if I’m shooting photos or videos or shopping for those things, or I’m doing neither and I’m writing or traveling or running errands and trying to stay on top of my general life administration. I feel like I do so many different things all the time that there truly is no typical day, which makes things very challenging.
Q: What’s your favorite part about your job?
Roman: It’s different all the time; it pushes me creatively and intellectually, and I get to have contact with people and teach them things and have an impact on their lives. It’s a completely unique experience to be in people’s homes and be a part of their lives, even if it feels one-sided because I don’t actually know them. But, just to have a lasting impact that feels a bit different than, say, cooking for them in a restaurant (which can obviously have a really deep impact, but it’s just a different style).
Q: To what do you credit your success?
Roman: Really hard work, and not letting things that I find challenging deter me. I think that I have come up against a lot of things that I struggled with, but I’ve never thought that meant I shouldn’t be doing what I wanted to be doing.
Q: How do you balance work, life, and such a busy schedule?
Roman: That’s a great question, and an answer I don’t actually have. That’s something I’m working on. I think that as I get more secure in my career and more successful, it’s much easier for me to kind of say no to things and to make time for myself, my friends, and protect my space and personal life. I find that to be easier and easier, and I think I’m getting there. But, just understanding that I’m not going to be very good at my job or to anyone else if I am feeling run ragged because I haven’t set aside any time for myself.
Q: What have been some career highlights?
Roman: I’ll never forget the first time I was published in Bon Appetit, I’ll never forget the first time I got a job as a pastry chef, I’ll never forget being recognized for the things that I was putting on menus in restaurants, I’ll never forget my first column in The New York Times or making The New York Times bestseller’s list, or these milestones that I feel like only happen once that truly do feel so, so special.
Q: What advice would you give to someone who wants to follow in your footsteps?
Roman: Try different things. Always say yes. Push yourself. Just know that it’s not going to be easy. Nothing just falls into your lap, and if it does it’s not going to last for very long. You have to constantly be thinking about how to make something secure and stable. Things will come your way, and you may achieve a small amount of success by accident, but in order to really keep it and have staying power, you have to actually work at it, and work really hard. It’s like a plant that you have to water and feed and take care of.
Quick hits
• What’s your coffee order? Oat milk cortado, iced black, or a regular black.
• What’s your favorite book? I’m really bad at favorites, but I’m rereading "Slouching Towards Bethlehem" right now, which is so good.
• What’s your favorite song at the moment? I’ve been listening to a lot of King Princess.
• Who have been your biggest mentors? I’ve been really lucky to have many mentors in the various stages of my career, but I have two chefs I worked for – Ron Mendoza and William Werner – who really helped shape a lot of my work ethic and basic understanding of pastry, cooking, and baking. As I moved more into editorial, I had a lot of really great champions. Christine Muhlke and Adam Rapoport were both so wonderful at championing me and pursuing my own thing.
• What’s the coolest thing you’ve ever done? My whole life is really cool. I feel very fortunate and happy to have done several cool things. I was actually just thinking that today while we were shooting videos for The New York Times. I find as much joy in that as if I’m recording [a podcast] with NPR or going on a vacation to Mexico. The coolest thing I’ve done is shape my life to be able to do a bunch of cool things.
This article originally appeared on USA TODAY: How chef Alison Roman became a renown food writer.
