Dolce & Gabbana's first digital Alta Sartoria men's show: happy times are here again
As borders begin to tentatively open, Dolce & Gabbana’s men’s couture Alta Sartoria showcased the most convincing argument for the spellbinding Dolce Vita romance of the Italian coast. Experience has always been the duo’s particular USP in unveiling their couture - shows set in fantastical venues with a whole theatrical cavalcade of stages and props - but this time the digital presentation allowed the craft of those exquisite Made In Italy clothes to speak for itself.
“We are trying to play an active role in preserving our craftsmanship and the supply chain”, said the designers, from Milan. “We have to celebrate, protect and promote that. In this collection we celebrate the beauty of our land and its marvellous and iconic cities”.
Italian tourism has been decimated by travel restrictions, and so it was to the magical coastlines of Amalfi, the paintbox bay of Portofino, the Venetian Lido and the crags of Capri in sartorial form.
The signature opulence was there - the lavishly embroidered suits, the decorative robes, the painterly florals across suits and jeans - but there were also pieces that evoked an easier holiday stance for the couture client who’s longing to escape their lockdown compound.
That’s holiday the Dolce & Gabbana couture way of course; linen tunic tops and breezy trousers, but studded with gold embroidery, racy Como playboys in printed palazzo trousers and polo shirts, crocodile jackets slung over their shoulder, and grand contes in sweeping silk kaftans studded with decoration.
After months of grim reality, the imagery of exoticl beasts picked out in beadwork, prancing across a kaftan, three dimensional flora blooming across the breastplate of an evening jacket and prints of glossy Riva boats zipping across Lago di Como were pure escapist fantasy.
The Italian powerhouse had been mindful to stay in touch with their Super High Net Worth couture clientele as they retreated to their Macau palaces and Gstaad chalets in lockdown.
“Most of them are friends, as well as clients”, said the pair. “The pandemic has affected all of our lives, but we believe that the passion for artisanal objects, craftsmanship and tailoring, or just for a great dress that makes you feel special, will never end”.
These are clothes to be seen in, so it sent an optimistic message that one day the cocktail parties and society soirees that these pieces are destined for will be in full swing once more.
It’s a show of force that Dolce & Gabbana continue to create elevated clothes for men, at a time when we’ve never been more dressed down in terms of our wardrobes, although the Dolce & Gabbana Alta Sartoria customer’s approach to ‘dress down’ is somewhat different to the rest of us - a casual day might involve a silk jacquard smoking jacket and bejewelled slippers.
“Men have been more simple and relaxed, but we think a time like this calls for eccentricity and individuality, they want to live an experience”, said the duo. For a joyous return to razzmatazz dressing for the peacocking ragazzi, there’s no-one finer.
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